Hello again!
After a quick tour of Bosnia, we moved-ever so slowly-by train to the big and bustling city of Budapest! We had heard plenty of good things regarding this "must-see" European city, so we were so looking forward to checking it out for ourselves.
Situated on either side of the Danube River, Buda and Pest are filled with beautiful green "kerteks" (gardens) full of activity, architecture that will hold your gaze for hours, and food and drink at such reasonable prices, we wondered why we didn't take weeks to tour this city. The people are ridiculously friendly as well. We had three people in one day ask us if we needed any help (one may have been slightly intoxicated, but friendly none-the-less). Even on cloudy days-which we had- Budapest just screams for you to admire and explore it. What a gem.
We stayed in a so-cool-yet-sophisticated downtown hostel called Bebop. With sky-high ceilings, low-lighting and walls littered with records, Bebop was a hostel we could have spent weeks in; not to mention the enormous dorm rooms with top bunks 10 feet off the ground. The building itself was in an awesome location as well, making it easy to walk the huge city. So, we grabbed our map and did just that.
The first thing we did was head over to Castle District, home of the Royal Palace, Matthias Church, and the Fishermen's Bastion. The District sits on a hill on the Buda side, with plenty of fine buildings and narrow cobble-stone streets and paths. We took our time walking around and admiring the tall peaks and towers of the Palace, watching the soldiers do their synchronized routines, and later, finding ourselves in line for some fresh kürtüskalaks. What does this strange word mean? It means delicious. No, I'm kidding, I have no idea what it means, only that the thing belonging to the word was delicious...You still following? Kürtöskalaks is a pastry popular in Hungary(possibly Czech Republic as well) baked fresh in a skewer-type fashion. The baker rolls the hot pastry in your choice of topping(cinnamon sugar, coconut, chocolate, vanilla), bags it, and then passes it off to you-the now drooling recipient. Ahh, slightly hard to describe, but it is completely hollow, and once you pull the end piece, it sort of twirls apart. Andrew has catorgorized this particular treat as "very good, but not life-changing". Fair enough.
We took a nice stroll up through some parks as well, making our way up the Gellert hill to the Citadel, a beautiful trio of statues erected after the second world war. The main statue is a woman holding an olive branch, a symbol of peace in her hands.
Next, we crossed the big Chain Bridge and took a look at the Shoes on the Danube, a memorial created to Honor the Jews killed in WWII. We were told that they were ordered to remove their shoes, and were tied in trios. The military men shot only the middle person, in order to save bullets. The bodies of men, women, and children were carried down that river, out of sight. Only the shoes remained. The memorial was awful, yet beautiful at the same time.
We passed by the enormous and architecturally magnificent Parliament Building and the House of Terror, another memorial and museum. We ate the tastiest Hungarian goulash soup, and some Hungarian sausage-with a rather healthy helping of ketchup and mustard!
A few hours were spent soaking in the Turkish-type thermal baths. We went to the Szechenyi Baths, a maze of outdoor and indoor baths, pools, saunas, and steam rooms. It was a wonderful way to spend a cloudy day.
We left Budapest wanting more, but Andrew and I both agree that that's not a bad way to leave at all!
Our next stop was Vienna, Austria. Another beautiful city full of art and music.
Our first night we paid 3 euros to join the other cheapies in the standing section of the Opera House. The show, "Salome", was 1 hour and 45 minutes, and I must say, I enjoyed watching the orchestra more than the actual opera. You could try to ask Andrew what he enjoyed about it...but I think he was too busy snoozing ;)
We again, did a lot of walking through Vienna, and spent a good amount of time exploring the amazingly lush gardens of the Schönbrunn Palace, as well as getting lost in the mazes. Later, we stopped for a picnic lunch in a grassy park. It was funny, because there were signs everywhere telling you to STAY OFF THE GRASS. Apparently no one takes them seriously, because everywhere we went students were studying, bums were sleeping, couples were cuddling. All on the grass. We've been told Vienna has plenty of rules not worth following. Good enough for us!
We met Lisa, originally from Germany, but studying in Vienna, and a group of her friends the second night. We got in touch with Lisa through Andrew's cousin Stacey. We got a little message from Stacey asking us if we needed a tour guide, as her best friend lives in Vienna. We said most definitely, and met up for some beers(that's our kind of tour guide!). It was really cool to hang out with some "locals" and get out of the hostel for a night. Andrew left with a long list of German must-try beers from Lisa's roommate. We have plenty of testing to do now.
After Vienna, we jumped on yet another train, this time bringing us to Zürich! The train ride itself was gorgeous. We went from green, grassy hills, to snow-filled pastures! Ahh, snow! All that white was a beautiful sight for us Canadians. Although, we were happy to be IN the train, not IN the snow. We would have needed a slight change in wardrobe.
We arrived in snow-free Switzerland, ready to meet Frederike and Thomas. We met this gem of a couple while on our overnight diving excursion in Indonesia. We exchanged emails upon parting, saying we would be in touch if we ventured to Zürich. So thankful we did, because in this last week, we have learnt so much from our new friends, and have had an absolutely amazing time. Not to mention the food and wine we have enjoyed!! BUT, I will leave you at that for now...
This is just the beginning of re-uniting with great people we met while in Asia.
“Each friend represents a world in us, a world possibly not born until
they arrive, and it is only by this meeting that a new world is born.”
--Anais Nin, The Diary of Anais Nin, Vol. 1: 1931-1934
A&C
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
Monday, May 21, 2012
Last Minute Loop: Bosnia
Zdravo!!
Throughout our entire four months of traveling, most of our plans have been made last minute, and many are made after chatting with fellow backpackers about their own trips. When we first set out to tour Europe we had almost zero plans, which makes for zero expectations. We have found that this method of traveling works best for us. The element of surprise is always there, and there have been several times that we are pleasantly surprised once arriving in a new country. Bosnia is a prime example.
The bus to Mostar from Dubrovnik was a beautiful journey. The landscape changes in little ways, from driving along the coast, then through fields and rolling hills, and finally into lush forest. Bosnia is such an underrated travel point, its a shame to leave it out, especially if touring through Eastern Europe. We knew very little about the country going into it, aside from hearing little tidbits regarding the war between the Serbs, Croats, and Bosnians 20 years ago-I wont go in to a huge history lesson with everyone, but it is most definitely an interesting topic to google-but that didn't prepare us for the war-stricken city we experienced.
One of the first buildings you see as you drive in to the city of Mostar is your usual old, abandoned mess of brick and cement. The difference here, is that this building is splattered with bullet holes. Move a little further in, and there is another, and another. The next one is instead crumpled and destroyed, with barely a frame holding it up. Bombed. The most eerie feeling comes upon you as you watch people going on with everyday life, passing the destruction left behind from an awful war only twenty years before. The sad thing is, the war still goes on. There may not be bombing and shooting, but the Catholic Croats and Muslim Bosnians do not live equally even today. Mostar has a Bosnian side, where the damage still lies with every second building, and the Croatian side, where shiny and bright new buildings stick out like an awkward silence. The building that stuck out the most to us, was an old bank. The Croats used it as a sniper building during the war. You can still walk around and up to the roof today. The walls are full of graffiti, the floors covered in glass, insulation, and wires. There are still shells littering the entire building. You can't help but pick one up and wonder where it's bullet landed twenty years before.
Despite the obvious left-overs of war, the city is still full of life. Its apparent that although scarred, the people of Mostar are doing their best to grow and flourish, but still stick to the old and simple ways of life. The addition of malls and McDonalds are not what excites the locals. Its the sharing of local food, the re-building of old bridges, and telling their story of survival and redemption. We really lucked out with our hostel. Majda's was more of a home then a hostel. Family-owned and run, every guest is welcomed in with a warm smile, offered a seat and a choice of coffee or tea. Majda and Aldina fed us homemade soup and fresh bread while they went over the map of Mostar with us, pointing out the best place to get Bürek, a popular pastry in Eastern Europe, and which sights to see. We were given a bucket of markers and a piece of paper to make up name tags for our bunks. It is such a simple idea, but its the only hostel we have been to that does that. The walls of the hostel are filled with old name tags, pictures guests have drawn, maps and flags, tips and pointers. For breakfast, Majda and her Mother, Nica, cooked french toast. It was the cutest, cosiest hostel yet.
We spent the first night getting to know the other guests, chatting with Majda about her distaste for modern life flooding into Mostar, and walking around Old Town. Mostar's Old Town is particularly special, as the Old Bridge-symbolising Mostar's spirit, and connecting the two sides of the city- was the last to be destroyed in the war. The Old Bridge stood for over 400 years before it was destroyed in 1993. The Bosnians re-built the bridge in 2004 using what they could from the original.
The next day we took part in Mostar's most famous tour with Majda's eccentric and animated brother Bata. It was a 12 hour tour, and the best we have been on to date. Bata picked us up in his "girlfriend". A big, white, hunk of metal that "likes it rough". Translation: slam the doors, and once your in, get crazy. We listened to Turbofolk-a wild blend of pop, folk, and euro dance, popular in the Balkans-the entire day. Bata even had small strobe lights installed, and to top if off at the end of the day...hung a disco ball from the roof. He entertained us with his hard-hitting fist pumps and hip thrusts the whole drive. I have never met such a goofy, free-spirited, yet ultra-caring man. Aside from sharing his and his girlfriends wild side, he also shared with us his own story of survival.
He lived through the war, and had to come to terms with the fact that people he was once friends with, were now shooting down at him and his family. He described the difficulties he had with being ostracized for having a background he wasn't even aware of. Catholic and Muslim hadn't mattered when it came to who he played with in the park as a child, but suddenly it mattered enough to tear apart life-long friendships. We really felt honoured that Bata was willing to open up, and talk about the war even though some wounds are still fresh. He explained that after so many years of fighting to get through, he realized talking about it was the best remedy. I highly recommend to anyone travelling in Europe to make the trip to Mostar in order to meet this man and his family.
Aside from some lessons in history, and sharing personal accounts, Bata took the ten of us all over Mostar and the surrounding areas. We ate Bürek, a thin pastry stuffed with either minced meat(the best!!)spinach, potato, or cheese. We actually got to peek in the kitchen as well and meet the ladies responsible for baking this delicious local favourite. As Bata said "These ladies are naaassty in the kitchen!!". We toured around Medjugorje, a Catholic pilgrimage site.We climbed the towers in the 15th century medieval town, Pocitelj, and stopped in a local woman's home for a wonderful feast of fresh fruits and dates, dried figs, and apple cake. She served us Bosnian coffee, and Bata taught us the proper way to drink it-dip a sugar cube into the coffee quickly, take a small bite, then sip sip sip the coffee, and to show you enjoyed it, "Ahhhh". We also tested out 3 flavors of homemade syrups: mint, rose, and pomegranate. All delicious. We admired a beautiful cave with an endless supply of water-the origin of this water is still a mystery. The cave acts as a backdrop to the Blagaj, a Muslim Holy House.
When the sun was really beating, Bata drove us to the incredible Kravice Falls, where we took a dive into the ice-cold waters(or in Andrew's case, took several back-flips in). We said "zivjeli" (zhee-vi-lee) to a glass of Rakia, and filled up on another local dish called Cevapi at the end of the day. Cevapi is basically grilled sausages of minced meat topped with chopped onions and a big slop of kajmak(yogurt-like cheese). All of this sits in a big, freshly baked pita. Yum. We love local food.
We arrived back at the hostel sometime after 10pm, and fell into bed happy and exhausted. We were sad to leave Mostar, but would go back in a heartbeat. Bata Tour Round Two perhaps!? I'm not sure we got enough of all that Turbofolk!
We took a quick hop over to Sarajevo for a night, another lovely Bosnian city, and spent the evening walking around and getting one more taste of Bürek and Cevapi. The next day we took an 11 hour train ride to Budapest, Hungary. More on that next time!
Hvala to all for continuing to keep up with our wild and wonderful adventure!
Love from across the ocean,
A&C
Throughout our entire four months of traveling, most of our plans have been made last minute, and many are made after chatting with fellow backpackers about their own trips. When we first set out to tour Europe we had almost zero plans, which makes for zero expectations. We have found that this method of traveling works best for us. The element of surprise is always there, and there have been several times that we are pleasantly surprised once arriving in a new country. Bosnia is a prime example.
The bus to Mostar from Dubrovnik was a beautiful journey. The landscape changes in little ways, from driving along the coast, then through fields and rolling hills, and finally into lush forest. Bosnia is such an underrated travel point, its a shame to leave it out, especially if touring through Eastern Europe. We knew very little about the country going into it, aside from hearing little tidbits regarding the war between the Serbs, Croats, and Bosnians 20 years ago-I wont go in to a huge history lesson with everyone, but it is most definitely an interesting topic to google-but that didn't prepare us for the war-stricken city we experienced.
One of the first buildings you see as you drive in to the city of Mostar is your usual old, abandoned mess of brick and cement. The difference here, is that this building is splattered with bullet holes. Move a little further in, and there is another, and another. The next one is instead crumpled and destroyed, with barely a frame holding it up. Bombed. The most eerie feeling comes upon you as you watch people going on with everyday life, passing the destruction left behind from an awful war only twenty years before. The sad thing is, the war still goes on. There may not be bombing and shooting, but the Catholic Croats and Muslim Bosnians do not live equally even today. Mostar has a Bosnian side, where the damage still lies with every second building, and the Croatian side, where shiny and bright new buildings stick out like an awkward silence. The building that stuck out the most to us, was an old bank. The Croats used it as a sniper building during the war. You can still walk around and up to the roof today. The walls are full of graffiti, the floors covered in glass, insulation, and wires. There are still shells littering the entire building. You can't help but pick one up and wonder where it's bullet landed twenty years before.
Despite the obvious left-overs of war, the city is still full of life. Its apparent that although scarred, the people of Mostar are doing their best to grow and flourish, but still stick to the old and simple ways of life. The addition of malls and McDonalds are not what excites the locals. Its the sharing of local food, the re-building of old bridges, and telling their story of survival and redemption. We really lucked out with our hostel. Majda's was more of a home then a hostel. Family-owned and run, every guest is welcomed in with a warm smile, offered a seat and a choice of coffee or tea. Majda and Aldina fed us homemade soup and fresh bread while they went over the map of Mostar with us, pointing out the best place to get Bürek, a popular pastry in Eastern Europe, and which sights to see. We were given a bucket of markers and a piece of paper to make up name tags for our bunks. It is such a simple idea, but its the only hostel we have been to that does that. The walls of the hostel are filled with old name tags, pictures guests have drawn, maps and flags, tips and pointers. For breakfast, Majda and her Mother, Nica, cooked french toast. It was the cutest, cosiest hostel yet.
We spent the first night getting to know the other guests, chatting with Majda about her distaste for modern life flooding into Mostar, and walking around Old Town. Mostar's Old Town is particularly special, as the Old Bridge-symbolising Mostar's spirit, and connecting the two sides of the city- was the last to be destroyed in the war. The Old Bridge stood for over 400 years before it was destroyed in 1993. The Bosnians re-built the bridge in 2004 using what they could from the original.
The next day we took part in Mostar's most famous tour with Majda's eccentric and animated brother Bata. It was a 12 hour tour, and the best we have been on to date. Bata picked us up in his "girlfriend". A big, white, hunk of metal that "likes it rough". Translation: slam the doors, and once your in, get crazy. We listened to Turbofolk-a wild blend of pop, folk, and euro dance, popular in the Balkans-the entire day. Bata even had small strobe lights installed, and to top if off at the end of the day...hung a disco ball from the roof. He entertained us with his hard-hitting fist pumps and hip thrusts the whole drive. I have never met such a goofy, free-spirited, yet ultra-caring man. Aside from sharing his and his girlfriends wild side, he also shared with us his own story of survival.
He lived through the war, and had to come to terms with the fact that people he was once friends with, were now shooting down at him and his family. He described the difficulties he had with being ostracized for having a background he wasn't even aware of. Catholic and Muslim hadn't mattered when it came to who he played with in the park as a child, but suddenly it mattered enough to tear apart life-long friendships. We really felt honoured that Bata was willing to open up, and talk about the war even though some wounds are still fresh. He explained that after so many years of fighting to get through, he realized talking about it was the best remedy. I highly recommend to anyone travelling in Europe to make the trip to Mostar in order to meet this man and his family.
Aside from some lessons in history, and sharing personal accounts, Bata took the ten of us all over Mostar and the surrounding areas. We ate Bürek, a thin pastry stuffed with either minced meat(the best!!)spinach, potato, or cheese. We actually got to peek in the kitchen as well and meet the ladies responsible for baking this delicious local favourite. As Bata said "These ladies are naaassty in the kitchen!!". We toured around Medjugorje, a Catholic pilgrimage site.We climbed the towers in the 15th century medieval town, Pocitelj, and stopped in a local woman's home for a wonderful feast of fresh fruits and dates, dried figs, and apple cake. She served us Bosnian coffee, and Bata taught us the proper way to drink it-dip a sugar cube into the coffee quickly, take a small bite, then sip sip sip the coffee, and to show you enjoyed it, "Ahhhh". We also tested out 3 flavors of homemade syrups: mint, rose, and pomegranate. All delicious. We admired a beautiful cave with an endless supply of water-the origin of this water is still a mystery. The cave acts as a backdrop to the Blagaj, a Muslim Holy House.
When the sun was really beating, Bata drove us to the incredible Kravice Falls, where we took a dive into the ice-cold waters(or in Andrew's case, took several back-flips in). We said "zivjeli" (zhee-vi-lee) to a glass of Rakia, and filled up on another local dish called Cevapi at the end of the day. Cevapi is basically grilled sausages of minced meat topped with chopped onions and a big slop of kajmak(yogurt-like cheese). All of this sits in a big, freshly baked pita. Yum. We love local food.
We arrived back at the hostel sometime after 10pm, and fell into bed happy and exhausted. We were sad to leave Mostar, but would go back in a heartbeat. Bata Tour Round Two perhaps!? I'm not sure we got enough of all that Turbofolk!
We took a quick hop over to Sarajevo for a night, another lovely Bosnian city, and spent the evening walking around and getting one more taste of Bürek and Cevapi. The next day we took an 11 hour train ride to Budapest, Hungary. More on that next time!
Hvala to all for continuing to keep up with our wild and wonderful adventure!
Love from across the ocean,
A&C
Thursday, May 10, 2012
Croatia: Split & Dubrovnik
Bok! (a form of hello in Croatian)
Our first city in Croatia was Split. The second-largest city in Croatia is still growing and becoming a popular place for tourists. Coming off the ferry from Ancona, we were greeted by a large harbor leading up to a wide sidewalk complete with benches and leading further up to a strip of restaurants and shops. We were there early in the morning and already people were sipping on coffees on restaurant patio's, walking with grocery bags full of fresh produce from the Green Market, or having a cigarette while opening up their shop for the day. It was a busy chaos that makes you feel at ease. In Italy, we felt that waiters and people serving you in general were very "huffy". Always rushing, running around, throwing dishes down, sliding your cappuccino down the counter to you. In Croatia, everyone seemed a little more relaxed.
We spent three nights at an awesome hostel called CroParadise. Tough to find, but once we got our bearings straight, the hidden streets(not on a map) began to make sense. It was like staying in a little apartment. 3 separate bedrooms, a bathroom, and a good sized kitchen and common area. Add in the huge plasma tv's and fast internet and we felt like kings! The tv's, equipped with thousands of free movies, seemed unnecessary, but on a rainy day we would have been pretty comfortable. The hostel also made up little guidebooks for Split. Listing places to see, things to do, and even a food guide. We highly recommend this place to anyone heading to Croatia in the future.
Mornings, we were up early and walking through the local Pazar, or Green Market. This giant farmers market brings locals from all around Split together to sell their homemade honey(from sage to lavender) cheese, fresh breads and pastries, meats, nuts and dried figs, and of course garden vegetables and fruits. As per usual with any market, you can find clothes, souvenirs etc as well. I loved walking through and watching the men and women wheel and deal for their days worth of food.
After we made ourselves some tea and fruit and muesli for breakfast we usually walked around Split some more. Starting with the Riva, or waterfront. This is the urbanized, open, and accessible wide sidewalk I mentioned above. With the harbor on one side, and Diocletian's Palace on the other, this strip is known as Split's living room. Our last day in Split, the city was getting ready for a yearly festival, so the living room was packed. Vendors selling everything you can think of made out of wood (lots of toys)), cotton candy and popcorn stands, bulk candy, locals selling homemade goods, and huge balloons waiting to be bought. It was a great atmosphere, and fun to be apart of such a local activity.
Another popular street is Marmontova Ulica, where the fish market is held, along with many other boutiques and shops. This street runs right along Old Town.
We also walked up to Marjan Hill, which is a popular look-out point that gives you an amazing view of the city in is entirety. We continued on through Marjan Park, found ourselves in a small zoo(quite pitiful, but it was interesting none-the-less)and then emerged onto a busy pedestrian street. Locals biking, rollerblading, walking, running. It was a strip of activity! We had lunch at Bene beach, and then stopped for a nice nap on Kasjuni beach. The other beach we stopped at the night before, Bačvice, also known as party beach, is a busy, sandy strip backed with restaurants, bars, and clubs. We stopped at a small bar with four Aussie girls we met and had a drink. The owner even came out with shots of their local liqueur on the house! The shot tasted like warm honey..mmm could be dangerous...
The food in Croatia is great too. One of our favorites, also a local favorite, is called Dalmatinska Pastacada. It's a fine boneless beef steak stuffed with garlic and cloves, and sometimes bacon. The beef is marinated for 12-24 hours, quickly fried, and then cooked with vegetables and wine. Usually served with gnocchi or macaroni (we had gnocchi). The gravy is thick and dark brown. SO GOOD. We went for dinner with the same Aussie girls and all ordered this notorious dish. The waiter brought out pots of aromatic, simmering beef, and platters of yummy gnocchi. Add a couple pitchers of wine and we were all feeling quite satisfied by the end of that dinner.
Another tasty Croatian treat is gibanica od sira, a savoury cheese-filled pastry.
Our next stop in Croatia was Dubrovnik. We took a five hour bus ride there, and were picked up by our hostel owner. He brought us to his family-run hostel where we were welcomed with a shot and some homemade gibanic od sira (remember, cheese-filled pastry). His wife, Milke, is a motherly, friendly, and always happy woman with an extraordinary skill for cooking. They have 6 kids, 4 of which work with them at the hostel. Milke told us a story about a woman asking her how she could have six chldren and love them all equally, and have enough time to spend with each one equally. Milke shook her head, and thought, "what a stupid question. I have never-ending love. I have so much love, enough for a million children. That is why I love this work, I want to share with everyone." My heart melted. This was the first hostel that really made us feel like part of the family. Four months into being away from our homes, this was exactly what we needed. Milke welcomed everyone by name and with a smile every morning. She cooked French toast, homemade pastries, and eggs for every single guest. All this food along with honeys and jams(all homemade and organic) tea, coffee and juices. One especially interesting juice was elder flower juice. I had no idea you could even make juice out of a flower. It was delicious. The kitchen was the most beautiful of organized messes I've ever encountered. Milke was always cooking or baking something.
We spent one full evening walking around Dubrovnik, checking out the old city, which is built inside the old fortress that saved Dubrovnik years ago while at war. On our way back we walked along the coast and watched the sunset.
The next day we had a big, delicious, and noisy breakfast with the rest of the hostel. After breaky we decided to go with four others on a tour for the day. We took a ferry to an island called Otok Mijet. We spent the day relaxing on the beach, snorkeling, and having a picnic lunch. Later we went to this huge cave with cliffs all around that locals have set up for cliff jumping. The safe jumping spots are all marked out on the rocks. It was so much fun, and extremely exhilarating to take the plunge. On our way back we stopped at a restaurant holding the title for best oysters. Everyone shared a platter, along with some black risotto with cattlefish, and regular risotto with mussels.
Ps did you know that they use the ink from squid to make the risotto black..strange, but still tasty. We ended back at the hostel around 10pm. We were sun-kissed and covered in salt, with full bellies and tired eyes. A great way to experience Dubrovnik.
Now, sitting in yet an even MORE homey and comfortable hostel, we are pinching ourselves to be sure this is all real. We arrived in Mostar, Bosnia not thinking we could find a better hostel than the one we had just left. A pick-up, with homemade soup and tea on arrival, we've found ourselves another family to blend into for a couple of days. Majda is another gem of a woman and we are feeling very blessed to have met her and her family at Majda's hostel.
We are off with her brother, Bata, for his famous tour of Bosnia today. Very excited as we have only heard great things.
I'll update you all on our Bosnian adventures soon :)
Thanks for reading,
"Life is a daring adventure or nothing at all" --Helen Keller
A&C
Our first city in Croatia was Split. The second-largest city in Croatia is still growing and becoming a popular place for tourists. Coming off the ferry from Ancona, we were greeted by a large harbor leading up to a wide sidewalk complete with benches and leading further up to a strip of restaurants and shops. We were there early in the morning and already people were sipping on coffees on restaurant patio's, walking with grocery bags full of fresh produce from the Green Market, or having a cigarette while opening up their shop for the day. It was a busy chaos that makes you feel at ease. In Italy, we felt that waiters and people serving you in general were very "huffy". Always rushing, running around, throwing dishes down, sliding your cappuccino down the counter to you. In Croatia, everyone seemed a little more relaxed.
We spent three nights at an awesome hostel called CroParadise. Tough to find, but once we got our bearings straight, the hidden streets(not on a map) began to make sense. It was like staying in a little apartment. 3 separate bedrooms, a bathroom, and a good sized kitchen and common area. Add in the huge plasma tv's and fast internet and we felt like kings! The tv's, equipped with thousands of free movies, seemed unnecessary, but on a rainy day we would have been pretty comfortable. The hostel also made up little guidebooks for Split. Listing places to see, things to do, and even a food guide. We highly recommend this place to anyone heading to Croatia in the future.
Mornings, we were up early and walking through the local Pazar, or Green Market. This giant farmers market brings locals from all around Split together to sell their homemade honey(from sage to lavender) cheese, fresh breads and pastries, meats, nuts and dried figs, and of course garden vegetables and fruits. As per usual with any market, you can find clothes, souvenirs etc as well. I loved walking through and watching the men and women wheel and deal for their days worth of food.
After we made ourselves some tea and fruit and muesli for breakfast we usually walked around Split some more. Starting with the Riva, or waterfront. This is the urbanized, open, and accessible wide sidewalk I mentioned above. With the harbor on one side, and Diocletian's Palace on the other, this strip is known as Split's living room. Our last day in Split, the city was getting ready for a yearly festival, so the living room was packed. Vendors selling everything you can think of made out of wood (lots of toys)), cotton candy and popcorn stands, bulk candy, locals selling homemade goods, and huge balloons waiting to be bought. It was a great atmosphere, and fun to be apart of such a local activity.
Another popular street is Marmontova Ulica, where the fish market is held, along with many other boutiques and shops. This street runs right along Old Town.
We also walked up to Marjan Hill, which is a popular look-out point that gives you an amazing view of the city in is entirety. We continued on through Marjan Park, found ourselves in a small zoo(quite pitiful, but it was interesting none-the-less)and then emerged onto a busy pedestrian street. Locals biking, rollerblading, walking, running. It was a strip of activity! We had lunch at Bene beach, and then stopped for a nice nap on Kasjuni beach. The other beach we stopped at the night before, Bačvice, also known as party beach, is a busy, sandy strip backed with restaurants, bars, and clubs. We stopped at a small bar with four Aussie girls we met and had a drink. The owner even came out with shots of their local liqueur on the house! The shot tasted like warm honey..mmm could be dangerous...
The food in Croatia is great too. One of our favorites, also a local favorite, is called Dalmatinska Pastacada. It's a fine boneless beef steak stuffed with garlic and cloves, and sometimes bacon. The beef is marinated for 12-24 hours, quickly fried, and then cooked with vegetables and wine. Usually served with gnocchi or macaroni (we had gnocchi). The gravy is thick and dark brown. SO GOOD. We went for dinner with the same Aussie girls and all ordered this notorious dish. The waiter brought out pots of aromatic, simmering beef, and platters of yummy gnocchi. Add a couple pitchers of wine and we were all feeling quite satisfied by the end of that dinner.
Another tasty Croatian treat is gibanica od sira, a savoury cheese-filled pastry.
Our next stop in Croatia was Dubrovnik. We took a five hour bus ride there, and were picked up by our hostel owner. He brought us to his family-run hostel where we were welcomed with a shot and some homemade gibanic od sira (remember, cheese-filled pastry). His wife, Milke, is a motherly, friendly, and always happy woman with an extraordinary skill for cooking. They have 6 kids, 4 of which work with them at the hostel. Milke told us a story about a woman asking her how she could have six chldren and love them all equally, and have enough time to spend with each one equally. Milke shook her head, and thought, "what a stupid question. I have never-ending love. I have so much love, enough for a million children. That is why I love this work, I want to share with everyone." My heart melted. This was the first hostel that really made us feel like part of the family. Four months into being away from our homes, this was exactly what we needed. Milke welcomed everyone by name and with a smile every morning. She cooked French toast, homemade pastries, and eggs for every single guest. All this food along with honeys and jams(all homemade and organic) tea, coffee and juices. One especially interesting juice was elder flower juice. I had no idea you could even make juice out of a flower. It was delicious. The kitchen was the most beautiful of organized messes I've ever encountered. Milke was always cooking or baking something.
We spent one full evening walking around Dubrovnik, checking out the old city, which is built inside the old fortress that saved Dubrovnik years ago while at war. On our way back we walked along the coast and watched the sunset.
The next day we had a big, delicious, and noisy breakfast with the rest of the hostel. After breaky we decided to go with four others on a tour for the day. We took a ferry to an island called Otok Mijet. We spent the day relaxing on the beach, snorkeling, and having a picnic lunch. Later we went to this huge cave with cliffs all around that locals have set up for cliff jumping. The safe jumping spots are all marked out on the rocks. It was so much fun, and extremely exhilarating to take the plunge. On our way back we stopped at a restaurant holding the title for best oysters. Everyone shared a platter, along with some black risotto with cattlefish, and regular risotto with mussels.
Ps did you know that they use the ink from squid to make the risotto black..strange, but still tasty. We ended back at the hostel around 10pm. We were sun-kissed and covered in salt, with full bellies and tired eyes. A great way to experience Dubrovnik.
Now, sitting in yet an even MORE homey and comfortable hostel, we are pinching ourselves to be sure this is all real. We arrived in Mostar, Bosnia not thinking we could find a better hostel than the one we had just left. A pick-up, with homemade soup and tea on arrival, we've found ourselves another family to blend into for a couple of days. Majda is another gem of a woman and we are feeling very blessed to have met her and her family at Majda's hostel.
We are off with her brother, Bata, for his famous tour of Bosnia today. Very excited as we have only heard great things.
I'll update you all on our Bosnian adventures soon :)
Thanks for reading,
"Life is a daring adventure or nothing at all" --Helen Keller
A&C
Tuesday, May 08, 2012
Italy: Firenze, Cinque Terre, Venezia
Ciao a tutti!
Well we are getting down to the last two months of our trip. Hard to believe nearly four months have alreays flown by. Looking at flights we noticed that day by day, prices were crawling up. So, in fear of paying an astronomical amount to come home, we decided to book a flight now. July 11th we will be back in Canada!
Let's just not rush that quite yet though...here's an update on the rest of Italy!
After Rome, we took a quick train to the next beautiful city of Italy, Florence. Even the name is pretty isn't it! Our hostel, Antico Spedale Biggalo, was 10km outside of the city, and provided us with a couple hours of adventure getting there. A "fifteen minute walk uphill" turned into an awful, half hour walk uphill on roads with no sidewalks with backpacks too heavy... Haha, needless to say, we were just happy to get there! The building itself is this massive, medieval looking castle built back in the 13th century. It was at first a hospital for pilgrims, and then years late, a Monastery. It had a bit of a creepy vibe to it. Dark empty corridors, big high ceilings. A lot of the old features have been preserved over the years, so that was a really neat aspect. For example, the stairs leading up to the dorm room have been built over the old stairway. The new stairs are see-through, so you can see the old stone steps beneath. Despite the slight creepiness, it was a great place to stay for a couple of nights. And what a view we had. All of Florence was ours to see from the balcony.
While in Florence we did a ton of walking around. The city has all these streets leading to square after square. We would be walking, not having a clue where the street was taking us, and all of a sudden we would stumble right into this beautiful square with people all over the place, a church, museum, or statue being the item of interest in the center. Shops and restaurants usually lined the perimeter. Sometimes there would be a puppet show or a little band playing. With the sun shining, its always nice to just find a bench and take it all in.
We visited the Duomo, a vast, architectural beauty. The cathedral was built in the 13th century, and the dome that dominates the exterior was added in the 15th century.
Just a little side note..My mind is still reeling over the history in these cities. The fact that these buildings, aside from multiple restorations in some cases, have withstood centuries of human contact and usage is beyond me.
We continued to enjoy the Italian cuisine. Cappuccino and brioche. Full, and flavorful pastas(always too large a serving!). Washed down with a nice glass of vino. Ahh.
We stayed another two nights at PLUS Florence, a hostel only minutes from everything. It was a great hostel as far as amenities go. A restaurant downstairs(with delicious salads!) a pool, steam room, and sauna room. It was great to unwind in the steam room after a long day of walking and sightseeing in the city.
From Florence we took a day trip to Cinque Terre. "The Five Lands" sits on the coast of the Italian Riviera. Built right into the steep cliffs, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare are all connected by hiking trails. The landscape is alive and lush with lemon trees, flowers, olive trees, and backyard gardens. There are paved paths going from one town to the next, but torrential rains and landslides have destroyed a lot of the path. Luckily there are some "off the beaten trail" pathways, so Andy and I took those to reach the other towns. Halfway throguh our hike it started to rain. Light and refreshing turned to hard and depressing. But, rain can not lift the spell that Cinque Terre lays on it's visitors. The view, the smells, the life. It's like a fairytale. A mystical, colorful fairytale. The houses are orange, yellow, and pinks. Bright green shutters are picture worthy and interesting. Despite the rain, we thoroughly enjoyed hiking through the towns. We had a taste of the fresh focaccia bread that occupies many little bakeries and restaurants-very popular with locals-and warmed up with a cappuccino.
After some more down-time in Florence, and a big mix-up with the Statue of David--we didn't even get to see the real one..it's a long story..I mean, why would you have a smaller duplicate?! Or rather, how could I be so silly to not ASK MORE QUESTIONS. Reason number 36 to go back to Italy I suppose--we jumped on a train to Venice for a night. Our hostel was on the mainland in a really nice neighborhood. It gave us a chance to explore more than just the concrete jungle of the island Venice. Spending one full day on the island was perfect. Mapless, we had fun with getting lost in the zigzag of streets, bridges, and squares. Its unlike anything we've seen, and although the Gondola rides are a tad overrated and expensive, the rest of Venice was interesting and unique. We people-watched from benches and window shopped the many shops and boutiques throughout. Had one last piece of Italian pizza(may have been the best slice) and a glass of wine.
The next day we made our way to Ancona to say goodbye to Italy and jump on a ferry to Split, Croatia.
A few days in Croatia and a loop through Bosnia, Serbia, Hungary and Austria will bring us to many friends, first all over Switzerland, then Germany, Paris, and lastly Amsterdam. Add Spain, Belgium, Ireland and Iceland to the mix and you have our last two months!! Lots to look forward to.
Look for an update on Croatia soon :)
A&C
Well we are getting down to the last two months of our trip. Hard to believe nearly four months have alreays flown by. Looking at flights we noticed that day by day, prices were crawling up. So, in fear of paying an astronomical amount to come home, we decided to book a flight now. July 11th we will be back in Canada!
Let's just not rush that quite yet though...here's an update on the rest of Italy!
After Rome, we took a quick train to the next beautiful city of Italy, Florence. Even the name is pretty isn't it! Our hostel, Antico Spedale Biggalo, was 10km outside of the city, and provided us with a couple hours of adventure getting there. A "fifteen minute walk uphill" turned into an awful, half hour walk uphill on roads with no sidewalks with backpacks too heavy... Haha, needless to say, we were just happy to get there! The building itself is this massive, medieval looking castle built back in the 13th century. It was at first a hospital for pilgrims, and then years late, a Monastery. It had a bit of a creepy vibe to it. Dark empty corridors, big high ceilings. A lot of the old features have been preserved over the years, so that was a really neat aspect. For example, the stairs leading up to the dorm room have been built over the old stairway. The new stairs are see-through, so you can see the old stone steps beneath. Despite the slight creepiness, it was a great place to stay for a couple of nights. And what a view we had. All of Florence was ours to see from the balcony.
While in Florence we did a ton of walking around. The city has all these streets leading to square after square. We would be walking, not having a clue where the street was taking us, and all of a sudden we would stumble right into this beautiful square with people all over the place, a church, museum, or statue being the item of interest in the center. Shops and restaurants usually lined the perimeter. Sometimes there would be a puppet show or a little band playing. With the sun shining, its always nice to just find a bench and take it all in.
We visited the Duomo, a vast, architectural beauty. The cathedral was built in the 13th century, and the dome that dominates the exterior was added in the 15th century.
Just a little side note..My mind is still reeling over the history in these cities. The fact that these buildings, aside from multiple restorations in some cases, have withstood centuries of human contact and usage is beyond me.
We continued to enjoy the Italian cuisine. Cappuccino and brioche. Full, and flavorful pastas(always too large a serving!). Washed down with a nice glass of vino. Ahh.
We stayed another two nights at PLUS Florence, a hostel only minutes from everything. It was a great hostel as far as amenities go. A restaurant downstairs(with delicious salads!) a pool, steam room, and sauna room. It was great to unwind in the steam room after a long day of walking and sightseeing in the city.
From Florence we took a day trip to Cinque Terre. "The Five Lands" sits on the coast of the Italian Riviera. Built right into the steep cliffs, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare are all connected by hiking trails. The landscape is alive and lush with lemon trees, flowers, olive trees, and backyard gardens. There are paved paths going from one town to the next, but torrential rains and landslides have destroyed a lot of the path. Luckily there are some "off the beaten trail" pathways, so Andy and I took those to reach the other towns. Halfway throguh our hike it started to rain. Light and refreshing turned to hard and depressing. But, rain can not lift the spell that Cinque Terre lays on it's visitors. The view, the smells, the life. It's like a fairytale. A mystical, colorful fairytale. The houses are orange, yellow, and pinks. Bright green shutters are picture worthy and interesting. Despite the rain, we thoroughly enjoyed hiking through the towns. We had a taste of the fresh focaccia bread that occupies many little bakeries and restaurants-very popular with locals-and warmed up with a cappuccino.
After some more down-time in Florence, and a big mix-up with the Statue of David--we didn't even get to see the real one..it's a long story..I mean, why would you have a smaller duplicate?! Or rather, how could I be so silly to not ASK MORE QUESTIONS. Reason number 36 to go back to Italy I suppose--we jumped on a train to Venice for a night. Our hostel was on the mainland in a really nice neighborhood. It gave us a chance to explore more than just the concrete jungle of the island Venice. Spending one full day on the island was perfect. Mapless, we had fun with getting lost in the zigzag of streets, bridges, and squares. Its unlike anything we've seen, and although the Gondola rides are a tad overrated and expensive, the rest of Venice was interesting and unique. We people-watched from benches and window shopped the many shops and boutiques throughout. Had one last piece of Italian pizza(may have been the best slice) and a glass of wine.
The next day we made our way to Ancona to say goodbye to Italy and jump on a ferry to Split, Croatia.
A few days in Croatia and a loop through Bosnia, Serbia, Hungary and Austria will bring us to many friends, first all over Switzerland, then Germany, Paris, and lastly Amsterdam. Add Spain, Belgium, Ireland and Iceland to the mix and you have our last two months!! Lots to look forward to.
Look for an update on Croatia soon :)
A&C
Thursday, May 03, 2012
Italy: When in Rome...There is ALWAYS room for gelato!
Buon Giorno!
Landing in Rome was quite a surreal experience. You go through the usual airport sequence; baggage claim, customs, tourist information, subway/taxi/bus to your accommodation of choice. But the real kicker is that feeling you get when you find yourself in the middle of this historical and breathtaking city. You drop your bags, take your sunglasses off, and allow yourself a minute to realize you are somewhere you always dreamed of going.
Italy seems to work it's magic with people all over the world. The food, the language, the history. It pulls you in to this whirlwind of experiencing something new, yet something so familiar at the same time.
I love that I recognize the food I'm eating, but yet every bite is exciting. Pizza, tortellini, foccacia, gelato, croissants. The pastas are honestly different, the pizza dough and mozza cheese is different. It's all just so fresh and homemade. I could go on for days about the food, but I swear we have been doing more than just eating.
We spent four nights in a hostel called Funny Palace. We assume the name derives from the fact that the lobby is a laundromat/internet point. There were no signs for the hostel, and the only way we found it was from one of the staff members waiting outside on the street for us. We checked in, received a complimentary bottle of wine (I'm liking this aspect of European hostels) and a map with a fully laid out itinerary on what we should do in Rome. The rooms were in an apartment complex just down the street. Again no signs. I think there is a lot of these "under the table" type hostels in Italy. We didn't mind though, rooms were nice, staff was really helpful, and we enjoyed our stay.
Our first day we toured around the Roman Forum and the Palatine Museum, the Coliseum, and the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore(the largest Roman catholic Marian church in Rome). We were our own goofy tour guide for the day, and we loved it. I'm sure we may not learn as much, historically speaking, by opting out of organized tours, but we honestly enjoy taking our time when we feel like it and breezing through what doesn't interest us. We tried the audio guide with the Coliseum, and some of it is really good to know, but we still prefer to be our own tour guides.
We spent the evening admiring the lit up fountains, streets, and monuments. Rome is breathtaking by night! The Spanish steps are a HUGE hang out for people, so we spent some time sitting around there. We threw coins and made a wish into the Trevi Fountain. After a full day and night of walking we both slept like babies!
The next day we took a train to Pompeii and Naples for the day. Pompeii, The Forgotten City, was first occupied in the 8th century bc. It is now a city of ruins that was first destroyed by an earthquake, then while under re-construction in 79 ad, was completely covered with rock and ash from an erupted volcano. This was the largest city of ruins we have ever seen, and it didn't take us long to get lost. After wondering around for a couple of hours we made our way to Naples for lunch. Although dirty and run down, we couldn't miss eating pizza where it all began. I can't say it was the BEST pizza we have ever had in our life, but it was pretty damn good. The dough is what makes it! Differing from the Roman thin crust pizza, the Neapolitan pizza has a softer, thicker crust. Ohh drool...I can say it was the best crust I have ever had. Crispy on the outside, warm and squishy on the inside.
Our last full day in Rome was dedicated to the Vatican Museum and St. Peter's Basilica. The crowds were outrageous, but we lucked out as far as line-ups go. It would take me hours to describe everything we seen, seeing as you could spend days waking through the many museums. Everything is so detailed and intricate, from the painted walls and ceilings, to the tiled floors. There are sculptures, paintings, tapestries and maps from all over the world. Walking up the spiral staircase, before even setting foot in the actual museums, you could stop every two feet to admire old photographs. Then there's the Sistine Chapel. I can only dream of what it would be like to sit in there alone and admire the famous frescoes by Michelangelo on the ceiling and walls. People are packed in the chapel like sardines, craning their necks to see everything at once. Although, we thought that was crowded, until we talked to a group of students who made the visit on one of the free Sundays...
After all the crowds, all the history and art, we made our way back into the sunlight and celebrated with some gelato. This time the cone of delicious-ness was about the size of my head. "Oh, come one, better pick one more flavor!" I am easily persuaded.
Rome was a huge success, but we were ready to move on to Florence for a few days! Being the last-minuters that we are, we booked the night before, meaning very little availability, so our first hostel was 10km out of the city. It was a slight adventure, attempting our way out on the city buses, but we made it eventually.
I'm going to leave you all on that for now though...we have a ten hour ferry ride ahead of us, so I'll take advantage and catch you up on Florence, Cinque Terra, and Venice.
Ciao for now!
A&C
Landing in Rome was quite a surreal experience. You go through the usual airport sequence; baggage claim, customs, tourist information, subway/taxi/bus to your accommodation of choice. But the real kicker is that feeling you get when you find yourself in the middle of this historical and breathtaking city. You drop your bags, take your sunglasses off, and allow yourself a minute to realize you are somewhere you always dreamed of going.
Italy seems to work it's magic with people all over the world. The food, the language, the history. It pulls you in to this whirlwind of experiencing something new, yet something so familiar at the same time.
I love that I recognize the food I'm eating, but yet every bite is exciting. Pizza, tortellini, foccacia, gelato, croissants. The pastas are honestly different, the pizza dough and mozza cheese is different. It's all just so fresh and homemade. I could go on for days about the food, but I swear we have been doing more than just eating.
We spent four nights in a hostel called Funny Palace. We assume the name derives from the fact that the lobby is a laundromat/internet point. There were no signs for the hostel, and the only way we found it was from one of the staff members waiting outside on the street for us. We checked in, received a complimentary bottle of wine (I'm liking this aspect of European hostels) and a map with a fully laid out itinerary on what we should do in Rome. The rooms were in an apartment complex just down the street. Again no signs. I think there is a lot of these "under the table" type hostels in Italy. We didn't mind though, rooms were nice, staff was really helpful, and we enjoyed our stay.
Our first day we toured around the Roman Forum and the Palatine Museum, the Coliseum, and the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore(the largest Roman catholic Marian church in Rome). We were our own goofy tour guide for the day, and we loved it. I'm sure we may not learn as much, historically speaking, by opting out of organized tours, but we honestly enjoy taking our time when we feel like it and breezing through what doesn't interest us. We tried the audio guide with the Coliseum, and some of it is really good to know, but we still prefer to be our own tour guides.
We spent the evening admiring the lit up fountains, streets, and monuments. Rome is breathtaking by night! The Spanish steps are a HUGE hang out for people, so we spent some time sitting around there. We threw coins and made a wish into the Trevi Fountain. After a full day and night of walking we both slept like babies!
The next day we took a train to Pompeii and Naples for the day. Pompeii, The Forgotten City, was first occupied in the 8th century bc. It is now a city of ruins that was first destroyed by an earthquake, then while under re-construction in 79 ad, was completely covered with rock and ash from an erupted volcano. This was the largest city of ruins we have ever seen, and it didn't take us long to get lost. After wondering around for a couple of hours we made our way to Naples for lunch. Although dirty and run down, we couldn't miss eating pizza where it all began. I can't say it was the BEST pizza we have ever had in our life, but it was pretty damn good. The dough is what makes it! Differing from the Roman thin crust pizza, the Neapolitan pizza has a softer, thicker crust. Ohh drool...I can say it was the best crust I have ever had. Crispy on the outside, warm and squishy on the inside.
Our last full day in Rome was dedicated to the Vatican Museum and St. Peter's Basilica. The crowds were outrageous, but we lucked out as far as line-ups go. It would take me hours to describe everything we seen, seeing as you could spend days waking through the many museums. Everything is so detailed and intricate, from the painted walls and ceilings, to the tiled floors. There are sculptures, paintings, tapestries and maps from all over the world. Walking up the spiral staircase, before even setting foot in the actual museums, you could stop every two feet to admire old photographs. Then there's the Sistine Chapel. I can only dream of what it would be like to sit in there alone and admire the famous frescoes by Michelangelo on the ceiling and walls. People are packed in the chapel like sardines, craning their necks to see everything at once. Although, we thought that was crowded, until we talked to a group of students who made the visit on one of the free Sundays...
After all the crowds, all the history and art, we made our way back into the sunlight and celebrated with some gelato. This time the cone of delicious-ness was about the size of my head. "Oh, come one, better pick one more flavor!" I am easily persuaded.
Rome was a huge success, but we were ready to move on to Florence for a few days! Being the last-minuters that we are, we booked the night before, meaning very little availability, so our first hostel was 10km out of the city. It was a slight adventure, attempting our way out on the city buses, but we made it eventually.
I'm going to leave you all on that for now though...we have a ten hour ferry ride ahead of us, so I'll take advantage and catch you up on Florence, Cinque Terra, and Venice.
Ciao for now!
A&C
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